1. Sounds like you’re confused about weed and feed. You mentioned prevention when talking about it but it’s a POST emergent herbicide, containing either 24D or MCPP, or both. Barricade, or something similar, is the pre-emerge. This should be applied after seed has germinated in the fall, usually late Oct in Northern OK. Also, where we live, fall is when you want to seed fescue, rye, bluegrass, etc. Moisture and temps are ideal at that time for seeding. Spring seeding is ineffective for the most part where we live as the summer heat will burn out much of the immature grass. The purpose of the Barricade w/fertilizer being applied in the fall, post seed germination, is to both feed the new grass to speed up maturation going into winter as well as feeding the existing grass to strengthen it for winter also. You then re-apply the Barricade with the spring fertilizer formulation in March to prevent any new weeds from germinating, especially Crabgrass, while feeding the lawn as it goes into summer. Mix in few light shots of high nitrogen in early and late summer and that’s it. If you follow this plan, and providing you’re able to thicken up your grass enough, you’ll never have the need for weed and feed. Recommend spike aeration in the fall before seeding cool season grasses, or plug aeration in Bermuda, Zoysia, etc. Should have ph checked ASAP and adjust it if necessary. Many times this is the culprit of why the turf fails to thrive.

  2. I'm so frustrated, learning on my own (or maybe not learning!). It's just turning summer in Northern Colorado and I over used weed & feed and have some patchy areas needing reseeding – at least I hope that may help. I wonder if power raking and reseeding now can bring back these patches of browning grass. Thank you!

  3. Never reseeded my lawn in 16 years, just power rake in spring! Grass multiplies by itself. Feed lawn nitrogen once a month. Also hollow tine in the spring. Bye.

  4. Hi kids, I'm a landscape contractor in Fresno. Nice to see a local on Youtube. I assume during diagnoses you ruled out pest or disease (fungus) as a problem or maybe soil ph? How about soil compaction (hardpan), you decided not to core aerate and top with organic matter. I will check out your website. Thanks

  5. Great video and info, I only wished that I had seen it before I reseeded my lawn with feed and weed. Even though it was more expensive it seemed like a good idea to use this product and take care of the whole thing in one step. Do you have any recommendations for anyone that is one week into using weed & feed . I’m thinking that I may need some advice now that I’m into it. Do I remove it and try your method or is there anything else that you could recommend to make it more affective in getting some nice grass to grow. This was the only video I saw telling you not to use this product and only saw it after I had used it, its hard to believe that they are able to get away with making this product all these years and it’s actually not good for either the shops are full of these products , but then again nothing should surprise me when it comes to making a profit. Thanks for sharing

  6. He is incorrect about weed & feed fertilizers. Weed & feed fertilizers contain selective herbicides that kill broad leaf weeds by causing them to outgrow the nutrient supply and die off while not hurting the grass. In this video, he is actually describing pre-emergent fertilizers which contain a chemical that prevents seed germination which then prevents grassy weeds from sprouting (along with any other grass seed, unfortunately). They, unfortunately, are not effective against broad leaf weeds.
    I agree that the main focus should be on growing a strong lawn with turf that out competes weeds and then only spot treat for weeds as necessary.

  7. Put weed and feed down this spring and it fed the weeds that were already growing. More weeds than last season I’ll never use it again. Guess I didn’t time it right.

  8. HELP!!
    But what do I do for my weeds now during the spring? I just had 18 pallets of Bermuda delivered & installed during January. It looks beautiful. But with a bunch of recent rain I’m starting to get a ton of weeds. What can I do?

  9. Question for you, if you have a recommendation. I have empty lots next to my home on both sides that are overrun with weeds (no joke when I say they’re at least 3-4 feet tall minimum, and there’s no grass under the weeds either). My home was recently built and the sod was laid dormant, and so I’m trying to help it grow well. Constantly fighting the fact that my house is literally surrounded by weeds is proving challenging. Most of the sod is greening up, but the amount of weeds in the yard is troubling. Do I need to tackle these empty lots? Any recommendation you have would be appreciated!

  10. i bought a new house, the original was a tear down. they bulldozed the entire property. soil is very clay like. then only sod was put down, so it looked good for a year or so. 2 years ago in the fall, i mowed low, dethatched, topdressed 1/2" with orgro, overseeded with high quality fescue. lawn looks GREAT.
    there are no shortcuts when dealing with poor quality soil.
    i also use only organic fertilizer. previous synthetic fertilizers burned patches in the lawn.
    i plan to topdress and overseed every 5 years.
    fyi, grass "gets tired" and ages so that it stops looking "young", that why reseeding gives it new blood.

  11. The "Weed and Feed" you get is designed to kill broad leaf weeds like clover and dandelions that are ACTIVELY growing. It's basically a fertilizer coated with 2-4-D that must be applied to wet lawns so the prill sticks to the weed leaves. The 2-4-D kills the weed by taking it in foliarly. It's not a pre-emergent like Barricade or others like prodiamine that have to be watered into the soil to kill the weed seeds BEFORE they germinate, mainly crabgrass. Your confusing people by not explaining the difference between pre and post emergent herbicides.

  12. so where would one start if have not used any products in the south central Alabama region. I measured and have 33,000 sqft of lawn and weeds with several types of grass. mostly st. augustine

  13. Idk but i apply weed and feed first thing in the morning when the lawn and weeds are wet. As per the instructions,it sticks to the weeds kills them within a few days to a week .

  14. It’s more about timing more than not using weed and feed. Also, what type of weed and feed are you using on what particular type of grass. Not all weed n feed have pre-m and some post herbicide can damage different types of grass. Nothing wrong with using weed n feed if you read the label and follow the instructions.

  15. Grow food & herbs, not grass… People are tricked into poisonings there own yard & underground drinking water with cancer causing fluoridated Round Up etc.

  16. I wished he would’ve started recording when he started the job so that we can see what he’s talking about. Why? I don’t do any of the above of what he’s talking about I don’t know what he’s talking about. All I do is mow it & water it. My lawn on how it looks like was described like that lawn he was on. Different patches of color here & there. Growing there but not here. Ands weeds. So I literally took a stab in the dark & bought weed & feed. I sprinkled it over & my lawn a week ago & it is growing & it’s green! Some of the weed is gone & some of those clovers are gone too. So I don’t know what’s happening, but my lawn looks better than before.

  17. My neighborhood in Pennsylvania (Wagner Farm) is the standard “Developer stripped off/raped/removed and sold for profit” the native topsoil so what is left is heinous clay garbage crap…..

  18. Exactly what the directions say on W&F bag. Timing is key. Works good, easy to use. Don't have to hire anyone……..wherein lies the reason for the video.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published.